Letter from Washington (V): Coffee on Capitol Hill

Here on Capitol Hill, I live in a coffee-intense neighborhood. It comes, I guess, from the area being both densely-populated and well-heeled. As a coffee-lover, it's a happy feast of choices right at hand. My longest walk to any of the places reviewed below is roughly the same as the shortest walk to a coffeehouse from my home in Iowa.

Awhile ago, when I found a spot to read the paper among the many nooks and crannies of Bourbon Coffee on Pennsylania Avenue, I was struck by the similarity of the layout to Wit's End in Marion, Iowa. That got me thinking about what Cedar Rapids coffeehouses most resembled the coffeehouses of Capitol Hill. I don't claim these are replicas--the real estate situation alone means Cedar Rapids coffeehouses tend to be physically larger than those in D.C., and I couldn't find good matches for every one--but there do seem to be ecological niches in the two business environments. I didn't review national chains, but I did include Port City Java, with which I was not previously familiar.

Port City Java, 701 North Carolina Av SE (0.3 mi). Across the street from the Eastern Market, this is the largest space of any on this list, plenty of room beckons whatever the time of day. A bay window looks out at busy North Carolina Avenue, and there's a street-facing patio for pleasant days. WiFi password is simple and memorable. Founded (1995) and headquartered in Wilmington, North Carolina, where all their coffee is roasted. Fair-trade and single-origin options. This is their only store in Washington (and in fact their only store outside of the Carolinas). Website includes breakfast and lunch menus. CR comp: Mr. Beans, or since its a franchise Scooter's on Edgewood Rd.

Jacob's Coffee House, 401 8th St NE (0.4 mi). This shop near the Northeast Community Library is in a fairly quiet and residential area, although 8th Street and Maryland Avenue are important thoroughfares. Tables are constructed for two but fastened together so they work for a larger group. If you come alone at a busy time you'll probably need to share a table with somebody, which seems to be expected so it's OK. CR comp: Brewed Awakenings.

Bourbon Coffee, 621 Pennsylvania Av SE (0.4 mi). Located on a bustling block with numerous restaurants and small shops, Bourbon is distinctive for its multiple small rooms which make it cozy but maybe difficult to find the right spot for your group. There's an outdoor patio in back which it was too cold to try the day I visited.

Bourbon was founded in Kigali, Rwanda in 2007, now based in Washington. Coffee is directly acquired from Rwandan farmers and cooperatives--"direct trade" not just "fair trade," with information on sources and varieties on the website. One of four DC locations. Supersize me! They offer 20 ounce mugs. CR comp: Wit's End.

Peregrine Espresso, 660 Pennsylvania Av SE (0.4 mi). I overlooked this shop for a long time because of their bland exterior, but to my shame was also overlooking their cool schwa logo. Their name suggests their specialty; they did a brisk business while I was there on a Monday morning, for fancy drinks not drip coffee. My drip coffee was delicious and served in a ceramic cup, but at $3.00 for 12 ounces is rather pricey even for DC. They also serve coffee in pour-over and iced forms, as well as other beverage options. Multiple snack choices. Founded here in 2008, it is now one of three locations, all in Washington. Coffee roasted by Counter Culture Coffee of Durham, North Carolina. [P.S. 4/3/18: This was my former student Emily Crouch-Ponder's go-to coffee spot when she lived in the District: "The baristas were always knowledgeable--when I was there, one of theirs was competing at a national level--and friendly."]

Ebenezer's Coffeehouse, 201 F St NE (0.5 mi). A couple blocks from Union Station, Ebenezer's is typically busy and often it's hard to find a place to sit. You do see people on laptops, so hanging out is clearly approved, but it has more of a high-powered vibe. Owned and operated by the National Community Church, which has its offices next door, it opened 2006 in a site that was a diner in 1908. Coffee roasted by One Village Coffee of Souderton, Pennsylvania. Vendor information and breakfast-lunch menus on website. CR comp: Brewhemia.

Sidamo Coffee & Tea, 417 H St NE (0.6 mi). I'm not a big fan of hyper-commercial H Street, which is fast becoming a condo ghetto, but Sidamo is special. It's narrow and deep, like most of these establishments, so you can get away from the street pretty easily. If you sit toward the front, as I did, you can watch them grind the beans. There's a patio in back. Its Ethiopian owners offer a coffee ceremony on Sunday afternoons. Their largest size is "gigante," which is 16 ounces after all. Ceramic cup was chipped but I could work around that. Free WiFi. Website includes breakfast and lunch menus. Opened in 2006.

Loaf Coffee, 101 15th St NE (0.9 mi). Just opened, a couple blocks east of Lincoln Park, this is a wonderful space for nearby residences. It previously housed a coffeehouse called Mia's. Loaf is nearly a mile from where I live (!), so I haven't been there much. Its location is convenient to Eastern Senior High School, so it has potential as a student hangout. Website includes breakfast menu, snack and lunch items, and they've just started a pasta dinner option.

Cafe Bliss, 201 Massachusetts Av SE (0.3 mi). There are so few seats here it's clearly meant for people to grab and go. Union Station and the congressional offices are close at hand, so that's surely functional. But I am looking for hangouts, and so haven't tried it. CR comp: Coffee Emporium, though to be fair I've never failed to find someplace to sit at Coffee Emporium.

Prices at these places are pretty similar: $2.50-3 for a 16-ounce coffee. (All have fancier options, but my tastes are simple.) That's pretty similar to Cedar Rapids prices, though a lot of coffeehouses in Cedar Rapids offer free or discounted refills which I don't see in DC. Even so, it's a lot for someone on a fixed or small income to be a regular. Does that hinder their potential to be third places? Or are coffeehouses today so culturally-defined that only certain classes or races ever frequent them?

SEE ALSO:
Rosie Spinks, "The Caffeine Curse: Why Coffee Shops Have Always Signalled Urban Change," The Guardian, 8 April 2016
Jamie Liu, "45 Essential Coffee Shops Across the DMV," Eater, 9 August 2017

PS-Back in the era of Facebook notes (c. 2011), I surveyed coffeehouses in Cedar Rapids and Marion, most of which still exist. If you're interested, I'd be happy to share that with you if you contact me.